Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

WHEN

Looking into the fridge on the back panel, if there is ice buildup visible and if the frost layer is more than 3mm thick, it’s time to do a manual defrost. Frost buildup can also happen if the door has been left open or the thermostat has been set too cool.

HOW

1.       Remove all items from inside the fridge.

2.       Unplug the fridge. (Note: get towels and put them inside at the bottom of the fridge and outside under the door. To soak up the melted water.)

3.       Leave the fridge off for 24 hours or until all the ice has melted.

WHICH RANGE

The only ranges that DON’T need a manual defrost are the backbar, Eco or Alfresco Range. All other models will need a manual defrost. 

COUNTERTOP

The controller is located at the back of the fridge. The settings are:

• Setting 1 (or MIN) = lowest setting warmest internal temperature) 
• Setting 5 (or MAX) = highest setting (coldest internal temperature)

UNDERCOUNTER

The controller is located inside the fridge on the side wall. 

• Setting 0 = Off (not operating)
• Setting 1 (or MIN) = lowest setting (warmest internal temperature) 
• Setting 7 (or MAX) = highest setting (coldest internal temperature)

Water on the glass door is caused by condensation in areas with high humidity. Condensation forms when there is high humidity in the atmosphere, and because the interior of a fridge is cold, the glass becomes cold too, and this, combined with humid weather outside, causes water to form on the door.

If you reside in northern parts of Australia such as Sydney, Brisbane, Far North Queensland, Darwin etc, where humidity is relatively high all year round, then you should look at a humidity controlled, anti-condensation fridge with a heated glass door.

• Information on door types:
  Normal dual glazed fridges with normal glass will start to condensate in about 50-55% humidity, and these will condensate heavily when humidity exceeds 65-70%
• Triple glazed fridges work better as the front doesn’t get as cold because we have 3 layers, not 2. So generally, 60-65% is pretty good before condensation starts to form.
• Heated glass is the only way to stop 100% of condensation forming on glass. Heated glass uses a film that is electrically charged at low voltage, so this can increase the energy consumption of the fridge. This can, however, stop condensation on the body or door frame, which is also very common. 

View the individual products specification sheet and user manual to see the recommended ventilation requirements.

Short answer: don’t. You will have several problems if you install a non-integrated fridge into cabinets with a door. 

Poor Ventilation: This is the biggest issue.  Fridges are designed to dissipate heat through the back, sides, or top and require air circulation around them. If they're enclosed in cabinetry:

• The compressor works harder.
• Energy consumption increases.
• Cooling performance drops.
• The fridge may overheat and fail prematurely.
• The warranty may be void if installation instructions aren't followed.

Noise experienced by the customers in their home can vary significantly depending on where and how the fridge is installed. Some of the reasons that can change the noise DB are cabinet, flooring type, contact with surrounding surfaces, ventilation, room acoustics, and more.  

Noise ratings are measured under a controlled environment. For this reason, dB ratings should be used as a general guide only and may not reflect real-world operating conditions in every environment. 

When choosing what fridge to buy, you need to focus on where the fridge will be located to pick the correct type for your area.

INDOOR  

Designed for use inside a climate-controlled environment such as kitchens, home bars, offices and apartments.

• Risk if used outdoors: The fridge would struggle to maintain internal temperature, overworking the compressor and reducing the lifespan of the fridge and potentially causing corrosion from moisture and humidity. 

OUTDOOR 

Designed specifically for permanent outdoor installation. These fridges are built with a heavy-duty cooling system designed for high ambient temperatures, weather/corrosion-resistant materials, and improved protection against humidity and moisture. 

• Risk if used indoors: Using an outdoor fridge indoors won’t cause an issue. However, the main trade-off you would have is the noise. Outdoor fridges have a more powerful fan and a larger cooling system, which will cause the fridge to be louder. 

Correctly levelling your fridge helps reduce vibration, rattles, door issues, and unnecessary operating noise.

• Position the fridge where you want it. (Check for ventilation needed for the fridge)
• Using a spirit level, check on the top of the fridge and sides if the fridge is level straight to the floor. The bubble needs to be centred. 
• If the fridge needs to be adjusted, turn the adjustable feet until the leveller bubble is centred. 
• Stability test, gently rock the fridge from corner to corner. The fridge should be sitting firm on all feet with no wobble or movement. 

All Husky spare parts can be ordered from Arisit Pty Limited's spare parts department. You can contact them on 1300 762 219 or [email protected]

A domestic fridge is designed for home use with moderate door openings and stable temperatures. A commercial fridge is built for high-traffic environments where doors are opened frequently, and reliable temperature recovery is critical. Commercial units are generally more robust but can be noisier and more expensive than domestic models.

Glass door drink chillers are designed and rated for beverage storage, not food storage. Meaning it has not been designed, tested, or certified for the safe storage of perishable food. While packaged snacks may be suitable, perishable foods such as meat, dairy, and fresh produce should be stored in a food-rated fridge to ensure proper temperature control and food safety
compliance.

The evaporation tray should be emptied regularly. If it becomes full, dirty, blocked, or unable to evaporate water efficiently, it can overflow and cause water leaks, odours, mould growth, and potential damage around the fridge.

The main differences are insulation, energy efficiency, temperature stability and condensation resistance. 

Single Glass: Is a single layer, best for indoor use, low to moderate ambient temperatures and lower humidity areas.

Double-Glazed Glass: Is 2 panes of glass with an insulating air gap between them. Best for home bars and warmer environments. 

Solid Door: An insulated metal door. Best for areas with high ambient temperatures and food-rated fridges. It has the best energy efficiency.

Alfresco bar fridges often sound louder when the compressor starts because they use more powerful cooling systems. 

Common reasons it could be louder:

• Vibrations through the cabinetry
• The fridge is not level
• The fridge is touching surrounding surfaces
• Hard flooring can amplify sound
• High ambient temperatures can make the fridge work harder

If your fridge has run out of gas, please contact our warranty department on 1300 762 219 or [email protected].

An alfresco fridge is designed for outdoors, however, it still needs to be positioned in a covered outdoor area where it's not directly exposed to the elements - full sun or rain. 

What can happen if your fridge is not in a covered area? 

• Reduced cooling performance which can lead to overworking the motor
• Increased wear and tear which can shorten the lifespan of the cooling system
• Higher energy consumption and UV damage

Poor ventilation is one of the most common causes of drink chiller  performance issues and premature failure. It will cause the compressor to run constantly, overworking it due to the trapped heat. This will lead to shorten compress lifespan, overheating components, increased noise, higher power consumption, and frost and condensation issues. 

Note that ventilation requirements are noted on the spec sheets which can be found under the product listings on our website and are specific to each range.

Some frosting helps the unit work more efficiently as the fan blows and pulls air that flows over a very thin layer of ice, helping keep the fridge cooler with less electrical usage. 

The surface of the evaporator ices up when the appliance is working normally. But, it can also occur when the door has been left open or the thermostat has been set too high.

If the frost layer is more than 3mm thick, the appliance must be defrosted and cleaned to avoid unnecessary energy consumption and inefficient operation.

1. Remove all items inside and unplug the appliance.
2. After defrosting, clean the appliance and allow it to dry

More tips to keep your fridge running right:

• The Vaseline Trick: Wipe down the rubber door gasket with warm, soapy water to remove hidden grime. Once completely dry, apply a very thin layer of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) all the way around the hinge side and edges of the seal. This rejuvenates dry rubber and instantly stops  microscopic air leaks.
• Check the Fridge Alignment: Bar fridges often lean forward slightly when placed under benches. Ensure the front leveling feet are screwed out slightly further than the rear feet so gravity naturally forces the door to seal shut tightly.
• Stop Short-Cycling Openings: Minimise how frequently the door is opened, especially during hot or humid Australian days. Every open-door swing pulls heavy, humid air directly onto the freezing rear panel.